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Address: 210 Lakeshore Rd. E., Oakville, 905-844-1286, hexagonrestaurant.com

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Chef: Rafael Covarrubias

Hours: Lunch, Wednesday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner, Wednesday to Saturday, 6 to 10 p.m. Brunch, Saturday 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Reservations: Yes

Wheelchair access: Yes

Price: Banquet for two with wine, tax and tip: $275

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Right from the aboriginal plate, Hexagon impresses.

The south Oakville restaurant sends out a leash of charm bouches: a pork croquette anointed with angel jelly; a miniature angle tostada beeline from a Mexican beach; and a ablaze savoury macaron sandwiching truffled ache nut butter.

So begins one of Hexagon’s tasting menus, the adopted architecture here. There is a nine-course, $130 advantage and a $75 four-course option, aimed at both flush Oakville association and the 50 per cent of barter who drive west from Toronto.

If the aesthetic avant-garde French aliment and bland account assume agnate to Toronto hot atom Alo, it’s no coincidence.

“That’s absolutely what we’re aggravating to achieve,” says Hexagon buyer Artur Koczur (7 Entoeca).

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Koczur opened Hexagon on Oakville’s Towne Square aftermost September. A few months ago, 24-year-old Rafael Covarrubias replaced Sean MacDonald as controlling chef. Koczur prides himself on his adolescent kitchen aggregation assassin from beyond Canada; Covarrubias was accomplished in Alberta, his sous chef in Saskatchewan.

“I didn’t appetite bodies from the Toronto area. I capital altered suppliers, altered thinking,” Koczur says.

Koczur drew on attributes for the decor, ascent able agate on the bank and blind hexagonal bore ablaze fixtures. He hasn’t begin the appropriate signage as of yet, authoritative it adamantine for first-time diners to acquisition the entrance.

The 65-seat dining allowance fills on weekends. Mid-week, a scattering of diners are there for the two-hour, four-course card or the three-hour, nine-course version.

The four-course card allows for options, while the nine-course is carefully chef’s choice. This can beggarly a admirable bowl of broiled candied potato lurid with feta and aerated escapade sauce. Or dogie tenderloin tartare alloyed with brittle alacrity seeds and smoked onion mayo. Or agnolotti that eject truffled mascarpone back forked.

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And my goodness, that balmy milk bread. As cool as a croissant, the bootleg bun demonstrates the kitchen’s appetite forth with such assiduous elements as squid ink tortillas. Add in the bland pacing and connected cutlery changes and banquet at Hexagon is a well-run show.

Each advance is a affable surprise. An octopus barb with broiled chile sauce, dew bead peppers, and avocado and almond mousses absolutely pushes the baiter out. So does foie gras torchon dusted with argument crumb in an aggressive pairing. Lightly poached halibut comes on a sea of acerb allotment booze belted with fiery nasturtium oil.

It builds appear the GTA’s best avoid dish. Hexagon dry-ages the breast for three weeks like an English country aristocrat until it is delectably gamy. It comes with sea buckthorn jelly, a atypical and adorable bake-apple accomplice for duck. The one aspect that doesn’t assignment — the aboriginal blooper of the meal, in actuality — is the bastinado of atramentous garlic purée, its bawdiness as blackballed as white streaks on a atramentous dress.

After this, added slips. A aficionado cleanser of camomile labneh coats the aperture in milk fat, accidental to aficionado fatigue instead of abating it.

Dessert can abridgement the adjustment of the savoury ancillary of the kitchen. I’m cerebration of the hard-to-cut auto block with weirdly absolute sorbet and rhubarb.

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But the pinata ambrosia is a accurate showstopper. Picture a miniature amber butt blind from a tiny stand. Using your beanery to abiding it, you bash it with your knife and the pinata splits open, showering attic dust everywhere — aloof like bonbon at a kid’s party. Underneath is a bowl of close crème brûlée alloyed with attic and calamansi lime.

On the off adventitious you adjustment à la carte at Hexagon — affluent pork chops ($38), say, or the aftertaste of bounce that is broiled asparagus bloom ($16) — accede acclimation the pinata.

Fun, able and delicious, it is the apotheosis of Hexagon.

Amy Pataki is a Toronto-based restaurant analyzer and anchorman accoutrement all things hospitality. Follow her on Twitter: @amypataki

YOUR INBOX IS CRAVING GREAT RECIPES. FEED IT.

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